Top 6 FPV Racing Quadcopter Kits


Trying to find the best FPV racing drone kit? FPV racing has become immensely popular these days. For this very reason, we have listed the best FPV racing quadcopter kits which are available in the market.



Notable features:

  • Control distance of the remote controller is 900 meters on the ground.
  • HD camera support is available.
  • It has useful image transmission and replacement options. Hence you can make changes as per your wish.
  • It is ready to fly drone. Most of the parts are pre-assembled and you only need to install propellers and battery to get started.



Notable features:

  • The battery of this FPV racing quadcopter is fully secured.
  • It is an RTF version drone.
  • Consist of a built-in monitor.
  • The remote controller has a long distance and high sensitivity.
  • It has a 2.4 GHz transmitter.



Notable features:

  • It has a built-in camera gimbal.
  • The remote controller has a distance of 800-1400 m.
  • It can be used with 5.8 GHz single image transmission receiver.
  • Has a high speed crossing 9 Channel radio.



Notable features:

  • It has a very aesthetic design.
  • SKYRC SOKAR 280 is able to present fascination flying action.
  • Consist of a super power system.
  • The remote controller range is long and sensitive.
  • It is easy to use and assemble.
  • This model comes with smart, potent and portable flying camera.



Notable features:

  • Extremely eye-catching model with a beautiful and sleek body.
  • It is a ready-to-fly model. You only need to fit in the battery.
  • The new model comes with a brushless motor which can offer great power during flight.
  • It has an optimized CC3D flight controller which ensures smooth and stable handling.



Notable features:

  • This model has a carbon fiber frame.
  • The camera angle is adjustable with the help of gimbal.
  • The flight controller is a CC3D Standard version.


When talking about FPV racing drones, it is extremely important to practice racing with the help of FPV racing gates and flags. They will help you to improve your racing skills. There are plenty of sellers who provide mind-boggling racing gates to customers. Some of the best ones in the market are Hobby King, Get FPV and The Racing Air Gates. They are economical and easy to set. In case you don’t want to spend money, you can even build your own FPV racing gate.

Apart from these, you may also need FPV racing simulator. A lot depends on the drone model you are using. However, we can list some of the top selling FPV racing simulators that you can find in the market.

  • Liftoff
  • Hotprops
  • Rotorcross
  • FPV Event PE



Walkera Rodeo 110 Mini FPV Drone Overview


With the ever increasing popularity of drone racing, users are demanding faster, more agile and smaller drones, to help them complete tighter courses. But does progressively smaller mean less power, speed and ultimately less fun? Today we are taking a first look at the new Walkera Rodeo 110, a Mini FPV Drone that is being marketed as a racing drone.

The Rodeo 110 follows the Rodeo 150, but with some important changes to improve the overall experience. The most obvious change is given away by the name, the Rodeo 110 has a smaller 130mm (not 110mm as the name suggests) diagonal motor span, down from 150mm. This makes the drone overall more compact, but means that smaller props are used (70mm down form 96mm). At only 101g without the battery and 148g with the battery, the Rodeo 110 is a very lightweight drone!

Walkera Rodeo 110 Mini


First Impression:

The biggest change we found was that the frame is mostly 2mm carbon fibre with small amounts of non-structural plastic pieces, which should make the drone very sturdy and able to withstand fairly substantial crashes. In close second is our favourite change, a top mounted battery! The Rodeo 150 has the battery contained within the body of the drone. While this is nice and neat, it did mean that you were very limited in the size of battery that could be used. The Rodeo 110 has the battery mounted on top between two plastic plates (front and back), so while you are not completely free to choose any battery size, it looks like most will fit quite nicely.

Walkera Rodeo 110

The biggest thing that lets the Rodeo 110 down is the FPV camera quality, which appears blurry and has poor light sensitivity. We don’t expect top quality when purchasing a budget drone, but the camera is one area where we really wish manufacturers would spend more of the budget. For anyone buying the Rodeo 110 as a first drone, the FPV experience should be as good as possible if Walkera want to retain them as a customer and this is a real negative in our opinion.


  • Carbon fibre frame
  • Top mounted battery
  • Light weight
  • Reasonable price
  • RTF option


  • Low quality FPV camera
  • No OSD
  • No telemetry


The Rodeo 110 offers a lot of fun in a small package, it has some great upgrades/features when comparing it with the Rodeo 150, but is ultimately let down by the FPV camera. For a drone marketed as an FPV racer, we would like to see better image quality to help with navigating tight courses. The bottom line though is that this is marketed as a racer, but a racer it is not. You simply won’t be able to compete with 5” racing drones when using something this small. That said, for the money the Rodeo 110 ticks a lot of boxes and we would still recommend you strongly consider it if you are looking at mini RTF options or want something smaller to fly around an indoor event.

Courtesy of images :

Runcam Swift FPV Drone Camera Review


Flying a drone by line of sight is great fun, but by adding a camera to the front of your drone and streaming the image live to video goggles or a screen, the experience is so much more. The sensation of flying and being in the pilot's seat is something that has attracted so many people to the hobby and is why it continues to grow. As with any popular new technology, things improve rapidly and there are a lot of options out there.

Currently the most popular option by far is to use an analogue camera with 5.8Ghz transmitter. With the camera often limiting the video quality achievable, it's important to use something that provides a reasonable level of detail, so that you maximise your flying experience. One very good option is the camera we have been using recently, the Runcam Swift.


The Runcam Swift is a variant of the popular HS1177 camera, but with a number of tweaks that make it easy to install and use. It has a CCD sensor, which is generally accepted as superior for FPV because of its ability to handle a higher dynamic range and transition from dark to light much quicker. The Runcam Swift comes in black, silver and orange cases with both IR sensitive and blocked options. A number of mounts are included with the camera to maximise compatibility with current and future frames.

The cables that come with the camera use silicone wire, which is a nice touch and means that you are less likely to have a broken cable after some crashing and general quadcopter vibrations. The camera can be powered with anything from 5-17V, but we like to use a regulated 12V supply from the PDB.

In theory you could power the camera directly from a 2S-4S flight battery, but any voltage spikes or noise would then be passed onto the camera.


Before using the Runcam Swift we had been using a standard cheap 600tvl CMOS camera. We are happy to report that after upgrading we noticed a very good increase in camera quality. The wide dynamic range makes a huge difference and overall we noticed a significant increase in image quality (we can now see those ghost branches that take you out). In our book, anything that improves the flying experience is very worthwhile.

The Runcam Swift comes with a separate osd/menu cable, that allows you to modify the camera settings without running a video pass-through. Instead, the video is transmitted by your VTX and you can view the video through your video receiver/goggles as normal. This is different to the standard and is partly why we chose to use this camera over others. Another nice

feature of the OSD/menu system is that you can add a simple text overlay with your name on, making it easy to find your video feed when flying with others.

Unfortunately, both the power/video and menu cable connections are at the bottom of the camera and so can foul the bottom of your frame if running a high camera angle and using the supplied bottom mounting bracket. The top mounting bracket limits you to about 35 degrees, so for those wanting to run the higher camera angles now becoming the norm, you will need to consider a 3D printed mount or a frame that supports mounting the Runcam differently.


The other design flaw in the camera is to do with how the image sensor is secured. In a hard crash the sensor can break loose because the case back door does not hold the circuit board firmly enough. This can be easily resolved using a thin piece of foam between the door and circuit board and we have not had any problems with either of the Runcam Swift cameras purchased. We have had some very heavy crashes but have not experienced any issues, so do not think durability is a problem once the foam fix is conducted.

As well as the foam modification already mentioned, we replaced the standard 2.8mm lens with a wider angle 2.5mm GoPro HD Hero 2 lens. These are readily available and the modification increases the field of view, providing better peripheral vision. When racing or flying through tight turns this helps seeing around corners and also means if your camera angle is too high or low you can still see reasonably well, rather than just seeing sky/ground only. Being able to change the standard lens with a reasonably cheap alternative is a big plus in our books as it provides longevity if you break a lens in a crash and also provides customisation options.


  • Excellent image quality
  • Wide dynamic range, ideal for FPV
  • Ease of menu access/settings modification
  • Customisable OSD/name display
  • IR sensitive version is great if regularly flying at dusk
  • Form factor makes the camera widely compatible with most frames
  • Wide input voltage range
  • Compatible with GoPro HD Hero 2 lenses


  • Potentially fragile until modified
  • Camera tilt is limited to about 35 degrees with the provided mounting options.


We love the Runcam Swift and for the money it is a great upgrade. The camera has some downsides, but nothing that cannot be overcome with some minor modding that any drone builder should be used to. The price tag may seem hefty if you are used to buying cheaper CMOS alternatives, but the improvement in image quality is certainly worthwhile for all but the most basic budget builds. Flexibility provided by multiple mounting options, interchangeable lenses and an easily accessible menu to change settings all add up to make this our favourite when it comes to FPV cameras.

Fatshark Dominator V3 Video Goggles Review


Why FPV ?

Flying a drone First Person View (FPV) or from the pilot’s perspective is an amazing experience. By strapping a camera to the front of the drone and transmitting this video feed as a live stream to a screen or video goggles, you can control the drone as though you were in it. Although the technology is relatively simple, there is quite a bit of cost involved with switching from line of sight to FPV flying. A large proportion of this cost goes towards the goggles or screen used to view the feed. Today we are looking at the Fatshark Dominator V3 Video Goggles, which are a very good option for those who want a compact lightweight mobile solution.

If you have recently started out flying FPV, it is likely that you went with a system comprising a separate receiver and screen or a set of goggles that utilise a single large screen and a lense to help you focus. These are both great value for money and allow you to get a feel for the hobby without spending too much money. The sacrifice for the low budget is often a system that is bulky or low specification.

The Fatshark Dominator V3 Video Goggles provide a very compact solution, incorporating a built in/swappable receiver, DVR and a screen for each eye. The goggles sit comfortably on your face thanks to the foam padded faceplate, which also blocks out external light, providing a really immersive feel. This is one of the biggest upgrades for users swapping from a screen or the large style goggles, which are heavy and allow light in. Extended flying sessions are now possible with no discomfort. In addition, the padded faceplate has a built in fan to keep the lenses free from any misting. We have found this particularly useful when flying in cooler weather when the goggles would otherwise have fogged up.

Onto the most important thing, video quality! The Fatshark Dominator V3 utilise a 16:9 aspect ratio and an 800x480 resolution. There is a 35-degree field of view and IPD adjustment, so you can line up each screen to each eye perfectly. The image is clear and reasonably crisp even at the corners. The perceived screen size is large, but not huge, we would compare it to having a laptop or tablet at arm’s length. If you are moving from a single screen with lense like we did (Quanum V2) then the screen size may actually be a step down for you, but the screen quality itself is very good and allows you to see even fine details clearly. When using the HDMI port to connect to a computer, the image appears even clearer.

Fatshark Dominator V3 Video Goggles

For us the HDMI port was a very attractive feature, as not only does it allow the goggles to be used with FPV drone simulators for a more realistic and immersive feel, but there are now HD FPV systems available like the Connex Prosight. Having HD ready goggles, with the connectivity required to be able to make the most of the new HD systems was important for us.

The DVR is a feature which we had always missed on the Quanum V2 DIY large screen type goggles. The DVR allows you to record the analogue feed viewed on the goggles and also play back this footage. This is very handy if you ever lose a model and either don’t have a buzzer or the battery disconnects, as you can watch the footage back to see where you crash landed. Being analoge, the goggles can tune into and record your friend's video feed too! A great feature on the Fatshark Dominator V3 DVR is that if you disconnect the battery without stopping the recording, it will still save. This is something that was missing from earlier versions. One thing we would like to see is an auto-pause when there is no signal, as we regularly forget to stop recording between batteries and now have hours of static recorded…

The battery that comes with the goggles is reasonably sized (both physical and capacity) at 1,800 mAh. The battery generally lasts us a whole session of flying, which could be 10-15 packs. It fits nicely into the side of the headband, where it sits comfortably on your head and doesn’t seem to add much to the weight/feel of the goggles when wearing them. If you are planning on dosing a longer flying session it is worth picking up a spare battery; when the battery voltage gets low the goggles make a few beeps before turning off shortly after!

The final piece that makes the whole system work is the changeable receiver module. This is compact and has a cover which seals it into the goggles nicely. The standard module utilises the 5.8Ghz band and supports a single antenna. There are now a number of alternative receivers available, which offer increased functionality such as diversity and favourite channel lists and these slot right into the existing module bay.


  • Compact
  • Lightweight
  • Built in DVR
  • Mini HDMI port
  • External video feed in - you can use your old receiver
  • Screen for each eye - can view 3D content


  • Price
  • 720p, not full HD
  • Small screen size compared to cheaper options
  • Not much time between low battery warning and video loss


We recently made the switch from the Quanum V2 DIY goggles to the Fatshark Dominator V3 and are very happy with the Dominator V3. The perceived screen size is smaller than the Quanum V2 and there are other options out there that have larger images (such as the Dominator HD2), but we feel that the Dominator V3 provide a good compromise between screen size and blurred edges (experienced when the screen size is too big). The small form factor is fantastic for long flying sessions without getting uncomfortable and the ability to record each and every flight without adding a heavy and expensive camera to the drone is a great feature. We will admit that the price tag is large, but we think it is justified and would definitely recommend the Fatshark Dominator V3 to anyone looking for a set of FPV goggles.

Got a Freerider / Liftoff?

How to use Fatsharks Dominator V3 Goggles with Liftoff or FPV FreeRider

You may all know the famous quadcopter FPV simulators Liftoff and FPV FreeRider which allows you to use your transmitter while being in the virtual quadcopter world. I have seen many people complaining how they want to use these simulators with their Fatshark goggles. Unlike the Headplays HD, where you can simply video out the display through a digital HDMI cable. Fatsharks can only be fed with an analog signal. As you may already know, most computers only have digital display ports.

The trick to convert digital video signal to analog video for your FatShark Goggles :

What you need is a simple module that converts the HDMI signal into the old style yellow composite. eBay sells these “HDMI to composite converter” for surprisingly cheap, only around 15USD. It runs off a 5V USB battery supply which can be connected to the computer while you are using it.


First connect the USB power supply into the little converter. Then unplug the HDMI cable from your monitor into the little converter. If you have a laptop, you will need to plug in an HDMI cable and allow the computer to mirror out through the cable. Once that’s completed, connect the male auxiliary to composite cable provided by Fatshark into the female composite port on the converter. Turn off the video transceiver and you should then only be getting the video from the computer. Voila!Your Fatshark Goggles are now ready!



Hubsan X4 Quadcopter Review


Hubsan X4 is a great little quadcopter to start with. It fast and agile .It doesn't burn your wallet. With the price of around 30USD, this quadcopter tops the charts and is one of the most referred-to drones in the RC community. Believe it or not, I can say that I fell in love with the X4, surpassing my love for the QAV250.


In Detail about Hubsan X4:

Having received the Hubsan X4 from for only about 30USD while it was on Black Friday sale, I am more than ecstatic to write about this drone. The package comes with

  1. Hubsan X4
  2. One 380mah 3.7 20C lipo battery
  3. Charging cable
  4. 4 spare propellers
  5. Special propeller removal tool
  6. 2.4ghz Transmitter
  7. Propeller guard (secretly tape underneath the plastic packaging, weird)

The quadcopter has a fantastic hard glossy plastic with four small LEDs to help with the orientation. The frame is specially designed to absorb impacts. This is my favorite thing about the design of the Hubsan X4. The frame is located underneath each arm and when crashed the plastic dislocates from the main arm to absorb the shock (You can then push it back with your fingers), Heck, it doesn’t make a difference in flight performance when even all four motor support gets dislocated. I had many nasty crash and thanks to this, the frame is good as new.


The transmitter, although not fancy like a Turnigy 9x, is pretty comfortable to fit in your hands. Unlike the CX-10, the transmitter is quite small and every small maneuver is quite rapid unless the rate is turned down. The Hubsan X4 surprisingly has adjustable rates for throttle, yaw, roll and pitch separately! You do not usually get this feature on a ‘toy drone’. I, however, do not fly with these features but is quite useful for beginners to turn down the rates for roll and pitch when starting out. Furthermore, the transmitter allows you to change from beginner mode to expert mode. This essentially changes the rates on all channels to high and the quadcopter becomes very sensitive to the stick movements. Other than these two fancy features for the remote, the transmitter also has your basic trims that show on the LCD display. No, the LCD does not light up if you were wondering.


Here is the main reason why I love the Hubsan X4. The customizability! I added a micro 5.8 FPV system on the Hubsan x4 which allows me to fly First-Person View. I will be sharing how I did this in an upcoming tutorial. The Hubsan motors are strong enough to lift extra 6grams of weight with the propeller guards without sacrificing much performance. Not to mention the spare parts and batteries are super cheap. I got 8 extra 380mah 3.7 25C LiPo(s) off eBay which is the same as buying one QAV250 3s battery. I live in Vancouver, where it is mostly rainy weather, and I fly this indoors whenever it’s raining outside. The 5.8 signal can penetrate all three layers of the house.

I highly recommend buying this quadcopter! You will save yourself a lot of time from building, configuring and repairing quads if you choose to purchase the Hubsan X4. Besides it saves you tons of money and very portable to carry around. Plus, as a last note, this is the cheapest way to FPV if you ever wanted to explore into FPV flight.

Let's get started with some FAQ, shall we?

Since most of the readers are from Canada, Australia, Singapore, and India, I am obliged to drop some links as to where to buy the Hubsan x4.

If you are in Australia:

  • Australian Robotics - though the drone is hardly in stock
  • Just Hobbies
  • Try to get this through though you will have to pay additional customs and shipping charges
  • If you want to buy it off eBay , make sure you research your seller properly by looking through his reviews

If you are in India:

  • and Flipkart don't sell popular drones .So, you are left with the only option of buying it through and paying the super hefty 30% customs duty!
  • Even if you do find this on Flipkart and Amazon , it's highly unlikely that it's going to be a fulfilled order by a reputable seller . If you end up buying the Hubsan x4 in India , let us know!

If you are in Singapore:

If you are in Canada:

  • Pro RC if its out of stock on AMZ

1. Ok, So you bought the Hubsan x4 and the motor goes kaput in a few weeks. What do you do?

Motor replacements for Hubsan x4 is a fairly easy task. But.Never go cheap on a new set of motors.

Check these out and make sure you buy one of these too, just in case. Having replaced a ton of motors, I have never soldered wires together .They are super thin and there is hardly any free space for extra wires in the arms. You can resolder it at the board instead.

2. How do I pimp my Hubsan x4 you ask ?

Batteries :the stock batteries is something you can write home about( for those who don't now Hubsan x4 battery life is about 5 mins and can go about to 9-10 minutes if you plan to upgrade to a 500mah battery kit ) .

ZJchao -(380) though decent, getting a good set of these is like winning the lottery. Poor quality control but a good buy never the less.

Neewer(500) is another option but you may also need to buy their battery charger which pulls about 0.8 amps in total.

The best buy would be the Tenergy though they have a lower 380mah capacity. These, for the most part, do not have any glaring quality control problems and you can be rest assured that each pair won't differ from the other.

Also, all of the above batteries are compatible with all major Hubsan x4 models (Hubsan X4 (H107C-HD), Hubsan X4 (H107C), Hubsan X4 (H107D), Hubsan X4 (H107L)).

Carrying case water proof your drone and can help you carry spare parts which might come in handy.

Protection Guard , if you are into that sort of thing but can be really hard to get a proper fit.

If you need a motor upgrade, check out the dark edition motors MMW

3. Is your Hubsan x4 drifting?

  • Check for hair or lint built up on one or more of the shafts
  • Try to isolate the problem by
    • Turn on the controller and do the stick calibration
    • Power up the Hubsan and bind the thing up with your controller
    • Calibrate the accelerometers by keeping the X4 on a flat surface
  • If you tried all of the above and it still doesn't work - It's probably a motor or electronics issue. Return it!
  • Also, note that some amount of drift is perfectly fine. Make sure you know how bad it is!

Easycap Setup And Review


When I first purchased Easycap from, I was very skeptical. In my mind, I thought about every possible negative thing that can come up when purchasing a cheap fpv setup. This by far has surpassed my expectations!This article will deal about easycap setup and will also offer essential driver links. I am throwing in a small easycap review as well!


The Easycap I purchased from Banggood was less than 10USD and comes with not only the analog video connector but also S-Video, left and right audio channels. The quality build feels really nice, comes with durable wires, and a USB cover. The DVR software comes in a small CD and the license code on the face of it. The license code however, did not work for me and I needed to search online for another registration code which then worked. When I first tested out on my 14-inch laptop screen, it was absolutely amazing, the latency was super low! It was so low that, I honestly could fly my QAV250 with the video. Easycap setup is fairly simple too.All you need is a couple of drivers and you good to go!

The DVR software is pretty simple to use. It allowed me to record the DVR footage in decent analog quality however, I felt that the live stream video quality is much better than the saved video. A really neat feature about the Easycap is that, it does not blue screen or shut off, it instead snowflakes the video. I would not even consider it snowflakes since the software replaces the black and white static with colorful pixels. This is less distracting when flying as most of the time the colored static is kind of blended with the rest of the video when the connection is weak.

Now the main question is; would I recommend this for FPV?

I would certainly recommend this for a beginner or someone who wishes to have a cheap DVR. I know that the most popular route currently for beginners is to purchase a TFT monitor as their first fpv setup. Many of these monitors cost in the range $50-$60, whereas if you already have a laptop you can use it. In addition, you get the DVR feature which is a big plus. As for me, you know that I am all about the goggles, for the “cockpit feeling”, but sometimes I like to bring this around if I know I am going to fly with my friends around so they could spectate on a larger screen, instead of viewing it on the 7 inch TFT Color Monitor.

How to Setup up Easycap?

  1. Connect the Easycap to you PC or laptop
  2. Allow the computer to search and install the driver by itself.
  3. Install Honestech TVR from the CD or through Google.
  4. Now open up the software and it will require you to enter the license code. Use the Serial code: TVR25-NMBGG-HGGGH-362DC-6BMG6 you will need to type in each section individually.
  5. Once the software has opened, you may see your webcam if you have a camera connected. You will need to tell the computer to choose the other camera. To do this, press composite on the media bar. You now have live video stream!
  6. To record the video, press the red circle to allow it to record
  7. To stop the recording, press the red circle again
  8. Here is the important part, in order to save the video, you will see a drop down list underneath the media bar, right-click it and press “Save as...”

The video is saved in “.mpg” If you have problems viewing it, use a video converter or the DVR itself to play it back.

Easycap Setup drivers:

All of the following EasyCap drivers are hosted in our Dropbox account .It is to be noted that easycap driver won't usually work on 64 bit systems. To disable driver enforcement int Win 8 and up . check this link .

Vista and Windows 7 EasyCap Setup drivers :

Try your luck with these if the above doesn't work :

If you have trouble

How to Clean Quadcopter Motors – RC Cleaning

Motor covered in mud


Here are some ways to clean your motors to keeps them at their peak performance. Dirt and mud may get into the motors after a nasty crash and causes performance to drop especially if sand gets into the magnets. Let’s get started with some quick RC cleaning tips!


It's is very important to have your motors clean before every flight. I tend to clean them immediately after I get back from the field, so the next day I can immediately be back in the air.

*It may be obvious but please make sure the battery is unplugged during the cleaning process!

Things you will need:

  1. Toothbrush
  2. Compressed air
  3. Isopropyl alcohol or distilled water
  4. C-clip remover or thin flat head
  5. Toothpick or some sort of picking tool
  6. OPTIONAL: Brushless motor oil

Basic RC Cleaning:

This is for motors with dirt that is mostly on the outside of the motor bell.

  1. What I usually like to do first is clean the dirt underneath the base of the motors which gets trapped in the ventilation holes. I use something sharp like a toothpick to pick the dirt out.
  2. I then use a toothbrush to scrub the excessive dirt out. Make sure the motor is pointed downwards so the dirt does not get back into the motor bell.
  3. Some loose dirt around the base can be removed with a blast of compressed air.

Super Dirty RC Cleaning:

This is for motors with mud around motor the bell and in the copper windings

  1. Complete the basic cleaning above
  2. To get the dirt that's trapped in the motor pretty deep, you will need to take the motor apart by removing the c clip holding the motor together. Simply use a c-clip remover or use a thin flat head screwdriver to flick the clip off. Make sure not to lose it. I recommend doing this process in a clear plastic bag.
  3. Pull the base and bell apart. You should see mud stuck onto the copper windings and gravel attached to the magnets.
  4. To clean the mud off the windings, I like to dip the whole stator in isopropyl alcohol and scrub with a toothbrush. If isopropyl alcohol is not available, distilled water will also work. You can place the bell in the solvent as well. This process will not damage the motor.
  5. To remove the gravel that are magnetically attached to the magnets, you can use a blast of 120psi of air. If you don't have a compressor you can only try to flick the gravel off with a toothbrush.
  6. We then need to dry the excess solvent off, with compressed air or just letting it dry over time.
  7. Install everything back including the c-clip


I would recommend purchasing a bottle of brushless bearing oil motor from Banggood. The product is called, "Tarot High-Speed Bearing Oil Lubricants TL2781". Apply a drop of the solution with the needle syringe that is included, directly to the bearings and spin the bell a few times.

Do not use WD-40 as the bearing oil!

Manual Mode & Self Leveling Mode

What is Manual mode?

Manual mode is all about having complete control. Self leveling quadcopter offer stability to new flyers.

Let’s start off with the quadcopter definitions; flying in self-leveling mode allows the quadcopter to return to parallel with the ground when no stick input is received. This mode typically has a max angle at which the quadcopter can tilt, so it does not flip over. You usually will find this mode in store bought toys like the CX-10, Hubsan X4 and the Syma X5.


Manual mode is a little different, when you transmit signals to change its angle, it will continue to stay at that angle when no stick input is received unless you counter the angle with the same magnitude and opposite in direction it will then be in a hover. What this does is full control of the quadcopter. This enables the flyer to perform flips and loops, unlike self-leveling mode which has a limit to how much it can tilt. Manual mode sounds pretty straight forward, but once you try to fly it for the first time, it’s a mind bender. You will find this mode in more advance quadcopters like the Phantom series, CX-20 and QAV250.


For most beginners they will start with self-leveling which makes flying much simpler as the quadcopter can return to hover position. I only recommend this mode for indoor flying or someone who is starting this hobby. Manual mode will cause lots of confusion especially when yaw is in the equation. You, however, will achieve smoother flight performance compared to auto level as the quadcopter will not jitter back into hover position. Manual mode must take lots of practice if you have flown in auto level for a while. Your brain will need to adjust the way you maneuver it.

Do not try to practice manual mode on an expensive quadcopter, that would be silly!